Setting up a big diesel generator isn't as simple as just bolting it to a slab and walking away. You’re essentially parking a massive tank of flammable liquid and a heat-breathing engine right next to your assets. If you don't get the fire safety side of things right, you aren't just risking a fine; you're risking a total loss of the facility if a small engine flare-up turns into a fuel-fed inferno. Many project managers start their compliance journey by looking at the build quality of industrial units at ablepower.com.au/ to see how professional enclosures handle heat. But beyond the machine itself, you have to navigate a strict set of Australian Standards to keep the site legal.
In Australia, you have to play by the rules set out in AS 1940 (Fuel Storage) and the National Construction Code (NCC). Here’s a breakdown of what actually matters when the fire inspector shows up.
The "Belly Tank" and Bunding Rules The fuel is your biggest liability. Most modern generators come with a "belly tank" underneath, but you can’t just let that fuel sit there without a backup plan. Secondary Containment: Under AS 1940, you need "bunding." This is basically a double-walled tank or a tray that can hold $110 of the total fuel volume. If the main tank splits, that fuel needs to stay contained. If it leaks across the floor and hits a hot exhaust, the building is gone. Safe Fill Points: You need to make sure the "fill point" (where the truck pumps the diesel in) is in a spot where a spill won't run into a drain or under a door. Distances: There are strict "separation distances" from property boundaries and "protected places" like onsite offices. If your tank is over a certain size, you can't just tuck it against a wooden fence.
Managing the 500°C Exhaust People often underestimate how hot a diesel exhaust gets. It can easily hit $500$°C when the machine is under full load. That is more than enough to start a fire through "radiant heat" without a flame ever touching anything. Lagging: Any part of the exhaust inside a room or enclosure has to be wrapped in heavy-duty thermal lagging. This keeps the outside surface temperature low enough that a stray rag or a leaky oil line won't instantly ignite. Termination: The pipe needs to end well away from air intakes. You don't want the generator sucking its own hot air back in, and you definitely don't want it blowing sparks toward a neighboring warehouse.
Killing the Fire: Extinguishers and Gaseous Systems If a fire starts in the engine bay, you have about sixty seconds to stop it before the fuel lines melt and things get ugly. Class B/E Extinguishers: You need a dry chemical or CO₂ extinguisher mounted right next to the generator. According to AS 2444, it has to be clearly signed and easy to grab. Automatic Suppression: For high-value sites like data centers, "water sprinklers" are a bad idea—they'll ruin the electronics. Most pros use "Clean Agent" gas systems. If a fire is detected, the room is flooded with gas that kills the fire without leaving a single drop of residue on your expensive alternator.
Ventilation and "Fire Dampers" Generators need a massive amount of air to stay cool. This usually means big louvers in the side of the building. The problem? Those louvers are a "hole" in your fire wall. To stay compliant, you have to install Fire Dampers. These are heavy metal shutters held open by a "fusible link." If the temperature in the room gets too high, the link melts, the shutters slam shut, and the fire is sealed inside the generator room rather than spreading through the vents to the rest of the office.
Emergency Stops (The "Red Button") You cannot rely on the control panel on the generator for safety. If the machine is on fire, nobody is going to reach inside the smoke to hit the stop button. You have to have a Remote E-Stop located outside the generator room or enclosure. It should be in a clearly marked, accessible spot so that the first person on the scene can kill the engine and the fuel pump without getting anywhere near the flames.
The Battery Hazard Batteries are often forgotten in fire audits, but they are a major source of "hydrogen gas" during charging. Ventilation: Batteries must be kept in a box that is ventilated to the outside. Isolation: You need a heavy-duty battery isolator switch. If you are doing maintenance or if there is an electrical short, you need to be able to cut the "cranking power" instantly to prevent an arc from starting a fire. Summary: Compliance is a Life-Saver Fire safety isn't just about avoiding a fine from the council; it’s about making sure your "backup plan" doesn't become your "worst-case scenario." By focusing on proper fuel bunding, exhaust lagging, and remote shutdown systems, you turn a high-risk machine into a professional utility.