Through the Eyes of a Son: Journey to the Islands of Saaremaa and Hiiumaa:

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5-DAY ROAD TRIP

Denis from Pärnu, Estonia, found himself on Hiiumaa Island for work. He was peacefully driving along a narrow road when he received a call from his Lithuanian friend. As they chatted, his friend casually mentioned that at that very moment, two Lithuanians were also traveling through Estonia: a father and his son.

Denis knew my father because they had already crossed paths once during my Dad's trip to Finland. He was taken aback when he glanced out the window and realized that we were not "somewhere in Estonia". We were right in front of him... 

FATHER AND SON'S ADVENTURE

Every year, the time comes for our annual father-and-son adventure. Whether revisiting familiar places or exploring new horizons, this cherished tradition brings us closer together, creating lasting memories along the way.

We faced a decision with two distinct directions to choose from: North or South. Initially contemplating the idea of following the path of the migrating birds, in the end, with a spontaneous change of heart, we made a decision to turn towards the enchanting landscapes of Estonia, setting the stage for an unexpected adventure.

Estonia was a familiar destination, a place we had explored on many occasions. However, when it came to the islands scattered along its coast, that was a chapter yet to be written in our travel story. These remote pockets of natural beauty and unique culture remained uncharted territory for us, beckoning with the promise of new discoveries and unforgettable experiences.

On the second day of our expedition, the heavens opened up, and rain poured down as if emptied from a giant bucket. These unexpected and extreme weather conditions required us to take immediate action. We scrambled to put on our rain gear, ensuring that we were well-protected against the relentless downpour.

Virtsu, a quaint village nestled in the heart of Estonia, is often referred to as the gateway to Muhu Island. To reach this charming island from Virtsu, one embarks on a leisurely half-hour ferry journey. As the ferry sets sail, passengers are treated to picturesque views, making the short voyage a delightful part of the adventure.  

As we continued our journey, the road from Muhu to Saaremaa stretched out ahead, promising new discoveries and adventures. Our next destination along this scenic route was none other than the charming capital of Saaremaa, Kuressaare. With each passing mile, the anticipation of what awaited us in this historic town grew, adding to the excitement of our exploration.

Saaremaa, known as Saaremaa in Estonian, holds the distinction of being the largest island in Estonia and ranks as the fourth-largest island in the Baltic Sea, trailing behind only Zealand, Gotland, and Funen. Its substantial size and unique character make it a captivating destination for those seeking a blend of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture within the Baltic region.

Kuressaare is a town located in western Estonia, situated along the southwestern coast of Saaremaa Island, overlooking the shores of the Gulf of Riga. Kuressaare holds the distinction of being the westernmost town in Estonia, making it a unique and picturesque destination on the country's map.

Kuressaare Castle, a historical gem nestled in the heart of Kuressaare town on Saaremaa Island, stands as a testament to Estonia's rich heritage. Dating back to the 14th century, this well-preserved fortress is a captivating example of medieval architecture. 

During the initial half of the day, a relentless downpour drenched us in rain, leaving us with no choice but to find refuge and tend to our soggy garments. In such weather, it became essential to pause our journey temporarily, allowing us the opportunity to dry ourselves and prepare for the adventures that lay ahead.

On the third day of our expedition, we commenced our adventure with a visit to the Sõrve Lighthouse, nestled on the picturesque Sõrve Peninsula. This iconic lighthouse, a beacon of maritime history and coastal beauty, welcomed us with its towering presence and the promise of breathtaking vistas.

As we explored the area, we couldn't help but be captivated by the rugged coastline and the stories that echoed in the windswept landscape. It was the perfect start to another day of discovery on our journey through this enchanting region.

During our visit to the lighthouse, we crossed paths with some inquisitive Latvian travelers who were keen to know about our mode of arrival. With a sense of curiosity, they asked, "Did you perhaps arrive by boat?" It was a friendly encounter that added a delightful element of camaraderie to our exploration.

During breakfast, a local resident named Jarmo, who had been living on Saaremaa Island for four years as a Finnish expatriate, made an appearance. He graciously welcomed us to take a look at his camper. As we spent time together, he treated us to some local delights, and in return, we shared a couple of tiles of black chocolate from Lithuania as a token of appreciation. 

Nestled somewhere in the western reaches of Saaremaa Island, our journey took us to a place where the landscape seemed to unfold like a well-guarded secret. Surrounded by the natural beauty of the island's western region, we found ourselves immersed in the tranquil and timeless charm of this remote corner. 

Nestled on the northern coast of Saaremaa Island, you'll find the striking natural wonder known as Panga Cliff. This breathtaking coastal formation, a testament to the raw power of nature, stands as an awe-inspiring sight for all who venture to its shores. With its towering limestone cliffs and panoramic views of the Baltic Sea, Panga Cliff offers a captivating glimpse into the island's geological history  

My dad had a good laugh and was pleasantly surprised that I didn't say, "Take three steps back." It's interesting to note that the tallest part of Panga Cliff, is over 21 meters high above the sea level.

We had the pleasure of meeting fellow adventurers from Germany, whose car was adorned with dozens of little flags, a testament to their incredible journey. What truly amazed us was the fact that their adventure had been ongoing for a remarkable 2.5 years, spanning from the southern tip of South Africa to the northern expanses of Norway.

The Anglo Windmill Park is a captivating site worth visiting on Saaremaa Island. This windmill park stands as a testament to the island's historical heritage and its enduring connection to the windmills that have graced its landscape for generations. These iconic structures offer a glimpse into the island's agricultural past, where wind power was harnessed to grind grain and support the local economy.

Guinea fowl, have a remarkable reputation for their tick-eating prowess. These birds are often favored for their keen ability to spot ticks from a distance and swiftly target them, almost as if they were savoring the most delectable of delicacies. This natural pest control behavior makes them valuable additions to areas plagued by tick infestations, helping to keep these troublesome parasites in check and contributing to a healthier environment.

"Are you invading Estonia?" we jokingly asked them.

"No, we're just traveling for fun," reassured the travelers from Poland with a chuckle.

The clock struck 18:00, and it was time for the ferry to embark on its journey to Hiiumaa Island. This trusty vessel plies the waters, shuttling between the mainland and the island not once, but twice a day. It serves as a vital link for travelers, ensuring they can easily access the island's beauty and all it has to offer, creating a seamless connection between the mainland and this charming Baltic gem.

Our journey lasted approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, and as we arrived at our destination, the evening twilight began to envelop the surroundings. With the light fading, it was now the opportune moment to embark on the quest for a suitable camping site where we could pitch our tents and settle in for the night.

Our shelter for the night was a cabin at the "RMK Kalurikoja metsaonn" campsite. Given that the main tourist season had drawn to a close with the waning days of summer, it came as no surprise that we stumbled upon a vacant cabin. Stepping inside, we were greeted by the rustic charm of wooden bunk beds, a welcoming fireplace, and a generous supply of firewood.

After bidding farewell to the friendly campsite and the lovely natural surroundings, we set our sights on Kõrgessaare town. It was time for a simple pleasure – our morning coffee to kickstart the day's adventures on Saaremaa Island.

We got to know Valter in Kõrgessaare. Once, we arrived at a store that was about to open in an hour. "What did you want to buy? Coffee? I can treat you to coffee at my home! Follow me," he said. Before long, we found ourselves at Valter and his wife Annika's summer house.

Over breakfast, we learned that Valter used to be a school principal and a math teacher, while Annika was an Estonian language instructor. They reside in Pärnu and enjoy spending their summers on Hiiumaa Island.

Valter guided us to a place that used to belong to one of his former students. This spot had become famous among travelers because of Valter's creative touches and ideas. It was a special place that attracted many visitors.

The most remarkable achievement was the construction of a towering 31-meter-high wooden tower. This awe-inspiring structure stood as a testament to craftsmanship and creativity, showcasing the incredible possibilities that could be achieved with this natural material.

After a brief tour, we bid farewell to Valter, who had to attend to his own affairs, and we continued our journey towards Kärdla, the largest town on Hiiumaa Island, and later, to explore other places on the island.

In one of the towns we were exploring, my father came across a familiar face from previous summer trips – it was Denis.

Denis from Pärnu was on Hiiumaa Island for work. He was peacefully cruising along winding roads when he received a call from a Lithuanian friend. During their conversation, the friend mentioned that two Lithuanians were traveling through Estonia at that very moment – a father and son.

Denis recognized my father because they had crossed paths once during his trip to Finland. He was taken aback when he glanced out the window and realized that we weren't just "somewhere in Estonia" but right in front of him.

"Should I continue on my work-related journey or not?" he pondered. Ultimately, he decided that duty was first. However, a little later, he encountered us once again and came over to say hello. He even invited us to stay at his place for the night.

Denis resided on the "other side of the ditch," so we made arrangements that upon disembarking from the ferry and reaching the Estonian mainland, we would take the time to pay him a visit and do some exploring in the area before our evening rendezvous.

An unexpected encounter took place aboard the ferry. We had comfortably settled into one of the seats when I suddenly remembered that I had something to retrieve from the motorcycle's saddlebags. On my way back, I spotted familiar faces: Valter and Annika.

Valter shared stories of his visits to Lithuania, mentioning that he was familiar with the work of several Lithuanian singers. He even sang a snippet from a song by Stasys Povilaitis, "Pienė" from memory.

Later, Valter went to a bookshelf where passengers exchanged books: they left behind ones they had finished and, if they found something interesting, took another. He selected one for himself and brought another one for my father. It was a book of poetry in the Lithuanian language.

We were on board the ferry traveling from Heltermaa to Rohuküla, a journey that promised scenic views and a serene crossing between the islands and the Estonian mainland. It was a tranquil and enjoyable ride, a fitting transition between our explorations on Hiiumaa Island and the adventures awaiting us on the mainland of Estonia.

Hapsalu Castle, located in the charming town of Hapsalu on the western coast of Estonia, stands as a historical gem and a testament to the region's rich heritage. This picturesque medieval fortress, with its distinctive architecture and scenic surroundings, is a captivating destination for history enthusiasts and travelers alike.

We returned to our motorcycles only to discover an empty tire on the Jawa. Attempting to replace the inner tube in town proved futile, so we decided to inflate it with a compressor and head towards Denis's home, which was 119 kilometers away.

With each tire deflation, we would ride for about 40 kilometers before the next one. Then it dwindled to 20 kilometers, and further on, we could only cover shorter distances like 10 kilometers, 8 kilometers, and 5 kilometers.

As darkness fell, it became evident that we wouldn't reach Denis's place. We were left with two options: detour to a nearby campground or set up our tent in a nearby field and continue our journey home with the first light of day. In any case, we needed to call Denis...

In a nutshell, Denis came to our rescue with a cargo truck. After some time spent chatting by the bonfire, we spent the night in our tent at Denis's estate. Come morning, we changed the inner tube, keeping the old one as a spare.

To sum it up – Thank you, Denis.

On our way back home, we made a pit stop at the Tūja campground in Latvia to take a breather. This place was first introduced to us by a classmate and friend, Deividas, over 12 years ago when we visited here with him and a few other friends after graduating from school and passing our exams.

We strolled around, reminiscing about Deividas's dad and the times when he and my father were the same age we are now. It was a nostalgic trip down memory lane, a chance to reflect on the passage of time and the enduring bonds of friendship.

EAST, WEST, HOME'S BEST

The recurring theme of all our journeys is consistent: every place we visit has its own unique charm, but ultimately, there's no place like home. Now, it's time to embark on the most important journey of all – the journey back to be with our family, where the warmth of home and the embrace of loved ones await.

We flirted with the Žeimelis girls while discreetly glancing over our shoulders to ensure we didn't incur the wrath of the formidable Žeimelis men. It was all in good fun, and our lighthearted interactions added an element of adventure to our travels.

The journey came to an end in our hometown of Linkuva.

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