What do you say when someone says they're going to gift you the tallest building in your country? If you're Poland in the 1950s and it's the USSR making the offer, you only have one option, like it or not. Well, it doesn't look too bad does it? Particularly if you're a fan of Stalin style socialist architecture.
A gift from Stalin
Originally called the Joseph Stalin Palace of Culture and Science, the building it is 237m high and was the tallest building in Poland when it was built in the 1950s. There are no prizes for guessing why the building was so named, why it was the tallest, and why it looks so similar to the other grand Soviet buildings during that period. If you install a puppet government in a country, what better way to colonise it than to slap your own name on the tallest building and stick it in front of the people's faces.
After Poland regained its true independence, the building was renamed Palace of Culture and Science, known locally as PKiN, cutting its ties with the horrible past. Just as Hive is now known as Hive, we want nothing to do with the past that was tarnished by a lowlife scumbag.
PKiN
PKiN was the first place I visited when I arrived in Warsaw. Mainly because it was 10 minutes walk away from my accommodation. And more importantly because it was late afternoon and I knew the observation deck on the 30th offers great views of the city. What took me by surprise was how run down the place was as I approached it.
From a distance, the round structure looked so grand at the foot of the even grander skyscraper. I looked for the entrance, but all I could see was dark windows, locked doors and graffiti on the walls. A couple of homeless guys had set themselves up on the grand entrance. It was terribly depressing. I couldn't understand why one of the most famous buildings in the capital of Poland was so desolate. I walked up and down but failed to find the entrance. Then it turns out this is the back of the building, and the round building, the Congress Hall is currently undergoing renovations, that's why it looks so bleak.
Eventually I walked around to the front of the building and saw crowds of people. This is more like it.
The observation terrace
You'll be glad to know I do have some nice things to say about the PKiN. It's inception was not welcome by all Poles, and to date there are still some who thinks it should be demolished because it represents the Soviet repression from the past. But from a tourist point of view, I think the observation terrace on the 30th floor offers incredible views of the city and is definitely worth a visit. It costs 25zt, that's less than USD6 to go up, and as you come out of the elevator the first thing you see is the grand Gothic Hall.
Visitors can walk all around the terrace to get a 360 degree view of Warsaw and if I got my bearings correct, this is what you see. Access from the Gothic Hall to the terrace faces the east. If you come here first thing in the morning I can imagine the welcome view of the early morning sun. The structure you see straight ahead is the National Stadium. It was built for the 2012 UEFA (that's the European Football Championship for those who don't watch football) and can sit 58 thousand people.
Moving on to the north, the low brown rooftop cluster on the right is the Old Town. There is a contrast here with the new modern side of Warsaw where you can see the Cosmopolitan Twarda on the left. This is mainly a residential building and is the 10th tallest building in the country.
Moving on to the west. Not that I had planned it, but I came at the best time of the day to watch the sunset slowly retiring for the day behind the Warsaw skyline. The Skyliner on the left is Poland's 7th tallest building, and the Intercontinental Warsaw on the right, the 9th tallest in the country. I'm not a big fan of these suspended floors and the top section looks a bit scary supported by that rather thin looking pillar.
Now we move to the King of all Polish skyline, the Varso Tower on the left. At 310m tall, this is the tallest building in Poland and the European Union, and trumping the PKiN's 237m by a hugh margin. It's a relatively new building, just completed in 2022. Apparently in 2024 it will open up an observation deck at 230m high, more than double the 114m where I am standing now. I think the anti PKiN's may be pleased about that. The view from the PKiN observation deck is already incredible, and I think it will be even more impressive from the Varso Tower when it opens. Perhaps a reason to visit Warsaw again next year?
And finally, the south has a bit of an anti climax after the stunning views from the west. There is a lot of green area and it was always very busy when I went pass as the central station is on the right.
Afterthoughts
I get why some (many?) locals do not like the PKiN. No one wants to be constantly reminded of the painful past. After seeing the modern skyline from the observation deck, it is clear that Warsaw has advanced a lot in the 30 years since the Soviets left. Perhaps with the new Varso Tower, the focus of tall buildings can now shift away from PKiN. And when tourists visit Warsaw they will head to Varso next year instead of PKiN. Till then, the PKiN can still be seen everywhere, left right and center.
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Good that there was an elevator, as going up to the 30th floor by stairs would be maybe a bit more difficult than going down by those wooden stairs in Wieliczka Salt Mine. 😁
It only took 19 seconds to go up the 30 floors, a little quicker (I think) than the squashed tomatoes lifts at the salt mine
So obvious but so to the point!
I can understand this too. I walked by this building when I stayed for a day in Warsaw on the way to Amsterdam past year, and ... it looks a bit impressive and the view from the top is beautiful indeed, but I couldn't make myself come in.🙁
It must be quite painful knowing potentially this could happen in Ukraine as well if Russia gets his way. During this trip to Poland and Baltic I have learnt a lot about history and how close history could repeat itself.
It is a very interesting place, this photo
gives me the feeling that it is a large building full of spirits, it even looked like the building from the movie Ghostbusters, it is as if something tells me that there are many entities there (probably due to my clairvoyance). I feel that.
However, at night it changes completely, it looks beautiful and amazing, it even looks like a casino.
Another thing that caught my attention is its streets, so neat and immaculate, not a single piece of paper on the pavement, at least I don't see any at first glance. And that for someone used to living in the 3rd world, is something very impressive.
!BBH
My first impression of the building is the Empire State Building in USA and Batman, not sure who influenced who. And if you ignore the building's origin, it's certainly very impressive.
As to the roads, I think they're certainly cleaner than UK, which is a first world country, so don't feel bad about the condition of the roads in your country!
It does look very impressive, but a stark reminder for the older generation indeed!
Looking at the other buildings, I agree with you about those tall buildings with sections of suspended floors. I've seen a number of them here in the Netherlands, I certainly would not feel safe!
I remember seeing some Dutch building are very 'unique' as well, not sure to make it them sometimes
Memories can sometimes be brutal, and seeing how they even changed the name tells how much the memory they have of the building hurts them.
Lol, and I do get the usage of Hive to Hive. The name still stayed the same, lol.
We changed the name to Hive after the fork to start afresh, much better than the old chain
Oh, okay. Thanks for the response. Have a nice day.
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looks pretty awesome honestly!
Yes, ignoring the history, it ain't bad. The Soviets had plenty of manpower to build the grandest of the grandest. This building was built by 3500 Soviet labour and apparently the Poles had to fork out the cost of accommodating them during the build 🙃
Day and night of the building has a different vibe. If I’m a local, I also don’t want anything to do with this building. It may be renamed but it’s a symbol of the harsh past. It’s better there’s going to be a new skyscraper to be built, better than this.
Even the（outgoing) government wants to demolish it, but I guess there are so many issues that needs to be considered with such a drastic action.
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STOPFantastic shots Pauline, I have been up to the top too....................and had a super burger at the macadees across the road LOL, go on tell me you did too????
No!!!! You didn't!! That's shocking 😱😱😱
I'm pleased to say I resisted global fast food chains for my entire trip 😁
LOL LOL LOL! I try to supress my urges, but I just can't help myself,
It looks like a great building, but like you said, if it reminds people of the past, it's normal that they don't like it. The building looks very majestic. I love watching the city from places like this, just like the CEOs in the TV series XD
The CEOs always have the best office views, have you found your perfect office yet? 🙂
No not yet but I'll find one day, I believe!
Every country has a more or less painful past, as well as those who keep with themselves some memories from the past which I find a pretty toxic lifestyle honestly. I do understand their pain and especially if they have loves ones lost in those painful times, but you will never be able to move forward if you keep those memories alive within your soul.
During this trip, I learnt that pretty much every country in Europe fell under one of the two evils in the past century, so it's fair to say every European was effected in one way or ithey, and some more than others. Luckily nearly all have moved forward since the 90s and that's why it's important for everyone to safeguard and cherish the freedom they have now
I get why some feel a negative about the building. Here in America, some of the confederate past remberences (civil war) has been removed and a lot of places renamed such as Army posts and bases. While it's history it does bring back some not so good times of the past that some don't want to be reminded of.
It's tricky isn't it. Lot's of history is ugly and sad, but you can't change history. If you remove it completely, the future generations will never know what happened in the past and may repeat the same mistake without understanding the consequences
Yes it can be. I agree erasing history can lead to making mistakes again. Now for things like slavery for instance. I don't agree having statues and tributes to leaders who were opposed to it. It just sends the wrong message in my opinion. I think that's why many have been torn down or places being renamed. This kind of history should be in books only.
Agree.
Our city, Bristol in UK was prominent in the slave trade back in the days, something that still hurts many locals today. At the height of the BLM movement a couple of years ago, a statue of the wealthiest merchant in the city centre, Colston, was pulled down by protesters and thrown into the river. That video went viral around the world. His statue is now stored in the exhibition warehouse as part of behind the scenes tour.
The city still has many places named after him. Some buildings and schools have been renamed, but streets are a bit more difficult.
Yup BLM was behind it here as well. Even some Native Americans stepped up and more renaming to include sports mascots. Hopeful as time goes along there is more unity here and abroad
Hello, wonderful photographs 📸 Thank you for sharing 😃
You're welcome
Warsaw looks like an impressive city, I'll get there some day. My only visit to Poland was my 2012 visit to Poznan following Republic of Ireland soccer team the European Championships. What an experience that was!
That PKiN building is very impressive, even if it has a shady past.
That's a pity, you never made it to Warsaw and the national stadium. How did Ireland do that year? And hope you had a great time at the match
We'll, the only goal we scored in the tournament came in the match I went to in Poznan where we went 1-0 up against Croatia only to lose 3-1. We had Spain and Italy in our group too. It was a group of death!
Went with ten great Friends and another twenty or thirty good friends were there too, so was pure madness!
The photos are very beautiful, I really like almost all the pictures of this amazing building.
It looks really cool
Yuhh such a great and spectacular views from the top! Seems like city in your hands. Is it open 24hours a day and you can see sunsets and sunrises or just a work day time?
Excellent views, and that sunset bathing the whole city in gold is sublime. I wish that building would not be demolished because it is so beautiful. The past has passed. The best thing would be to concentrate on how wonderful the present could be in there, turning that space into something meaningful and helping the Polish people to chart their destiny always in pursuit of development.
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I have to saw I love the architecture of the PKiN building - your first pic of it is quite impressive ! I'm saying that without considering its historical implications - I simply like how it looks. I also loved the pics of the sunset, that must have been quite a view ! I've never been to Warsaw, but it looks nice.
It was awesome being up there at the right tiny, we even got to play with some shadow photos 😀
This post made google out if we have some of these "socialist realistic jewels" in my country too and just as I expected, we do... The Hotel International in Prague actually looks very similar to PKiN... The sentiment towards these Soviet relics is also identical here in my country. What we don´t have here though is the fancy skyscraper skyline. I saw some pictures of the Warsaw skyline taken at night and it looks really cool. I´m yet to visit Warsaw, I have only gone through once so far, on my way from Prague to Vilnius...
The building will probably be demolished sooner or later because it is extremely expensive to maintain and has to be heavily subsidized. Not surprisingly, thorough restoration and modernization of such huge building, to meet modern standards, is unthinkable.
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