Hi everybody! Всем привет! Hola a todos! Bonjour à tous! Hallo allerseits! Поздрав свима!
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just a couple of days on a motorbike
"Any trip is a holiday that will forever remain in your memory" — someone
Over just a couple of days on a motorbike, we got a comprehensive feel for Bali's southern coast. We visited the major beaches, with Pandawa and Uluwatu leaving the strongest impressions.
Pandawa Beach is undeniably scenic, with a dramatic road carved into the cliffs leading to the shore. It's a popular spot for local Balinese youth, but they’re not there to swim—they're there to take selfies. The central part of the beach is packed with empty, overpriced sun loungers and umbrellas, guarded by locals with a hawk-eyed intensity. The prices are outrageous. Without some form of shade, staying there is nearly impossible as the sun beats down relentlessly. On our visit, the few foreign tourists (about six to eight people) clung to the edges of the beach near the caves—probably saving money like us.
The main downside of Pandawa is its inaccessibility, and honestly, there’s not much to do there for more than a couple of hours. It's the kind of place you visit just to tick it off your list: “I was here.”
Uluwatu, of course, came next. The famed temple that people rave about with wide-eyed wonder felt, to me, like a bit of a tourist trap. The temple’s architecture is unremarkable, and the walk along the cliffs—with its brazen monkey gangs and ocean views—didn’t quite justify the price. A better alternative is the Maldini restaurant on the cliff. There, you can soak in the views properly…
…with a cocktail in hand, of course.
The highlight of our trip, however, was Blue Point Beach, a haven for surfers and Instagram influencers. The unique location—a winding gorge leading to a small beach—offers stunning viewpoints and a lively atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you’d want to linger for a few days, soaking in the vibe.
We almost missed Suluban Beach, though.
We were about to leave when one of our group (the one who always forgets her carry-on at customs) noticed people disappearing into a “little cave” and not coming back. Naturally, curiosity got the better of us. What we found was a narrow passage leading to a hidden beach.
Getting there is an adventure in itself. You have to navigate along the rock face, where waves occasionally crash in. From time to time, you hear the screams of unsuspecting tourists. While we were there, a wave drenched an Instagram couple posing for their “dream wedding” shoot. To everyone’s delight, the photographer got just as soaked. A pair of glamorous Chinese girls, perfectly made up for a photo shoot, lingered too long and were knocked over by the surf, prompting applause from the onlookers.
On forums, I’ve seen concerned parents asking, “Can you holiday in Bali with kids? Are there family-friendly beaches?” The child-free crowd often replies, “No way! Bali is for people like us—smart, ageless, and carefree!” Regarding southern Bali, it’s suitable for kids only if they’ve had a proper childhood: cycling in the heat without a hat, climbing trees, splashing through puddles, and throwing stones. If your kids are glued to gadgets 24/7, chauffeured to school, and only walk as far as the kitchen, the south of Bali isn’t for you. You’ll have a rough time with the ocean waves, scorching sun, and—who knows—hungry crocodiles.
General impressions of Nusa Dua and the south:
It’s worth visiting. Prices are relatively reasonable. The food, while not spectacular, is tolerable—pretty much on par with the rest of Bali.
We, however, started craving fresh visual experiences, crystal-clear waters, and colourful fish.
On the third evening, a languid Balinese youth appeared at our hotel with a white Honda. Despite being brand new, the car had already endured its share of “adventures.” Dented sills, a patched-up bumper, and a dangling indicator light spoke of a colourful history.
We went through the familiar ritual of marking all these “battle scars” on the rental agreement. The youth calmly made notes while I dramatically pointed out each flaw. By the time we were done, the diagram looked like a game of join-the-dots.
I told him we couldn’t possibly drive such an aesthetically challenged car—it would ruin our impression of the island and offend our sense of beauty. He made a call to his boss, who then asked if a 10% discount and one free day would improve our perception. After a brief pause and some heavy sighing, we agreed.
To its credit, the car’s exterior was the only issue; its internals were in excellent condition, as confirmed by service records.
By the time we sorted out the paperwork, it was dark. We decided to head to Ubud, where we’d booked a hotel with the intriguing name “Dupa.” Bali certainly has a flair for naming things: Dupa, Suka, Suma...
The drive from Nusa Dua to Ubud can only be described as “chaotic.” While not outright hellish, it was close. The roads and traffic near Ubud were particularly bad. At one point, a scooter rider casually stepped on our bonnet, pushed off, and went on his way. No drama, no shouting—just the usual relaxed Balinese vibe.
By the time we sorted out the paperwork, it was dark. We decided to head to Ubud, where we’d booked a hotel with the intriguing name “Dupa.” Bali certainly has a flair for naming things: Dupa, Suka, Suma...
The drive from Nusa Dua to Ubud can only be described as “chaotic.” While not outright hellish, it was close. The roads and traffic near Ubud were particularly bad. At one point, a scooter rider casually stepped on our bonnet, pushed off, and went on his way. No drama, no shouting—just the usual relaxed Balinese vibe.
Ubud itself left us puzzled. What is it that draws digital nomads, creatives, and Instagrammers here? To us, it seemed like just another Asian town: narrow, hot streets, rice fields, and palm trees. They say you need to live there for a month to truly “get” Ubud. But with just two weeks of holiday? A month feels like a luxury. And honestly, what would you do there for an entire month?
The famous rice terraces? Overrated, if you ask me. The entrance fee is steep, the swing photos are extra, and renting a red dress for the photoshoot costs even more. Five thousand rupiah for an Instagram post? No thanks.
We moved on to the northernmost point of our trip: Pemuteran.
That,s all for today.
Stand by
Sincerely yours
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