Getting Lost in the Tatacoa Desert of Colombia

On this trip, I conquer roadblocks and natural obstacles in order to explore the Tatacoa Desert. This unorthodox method of travel — including buses, hitchiking, cycling, and even a canoe ride has some advantages though — I have the place almost to myself during a few unforgettable days in the desert of Colombia.

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Terminal de Transporte Ibague

After failing to get a direct bus to my destination, due to national protests and road blocks I settled in Ibague for a few days to relax and get some video editing done. Then on my day of departure, I found that there still wasn't a bus heading my way. Fortunately, someone pointed me towards the bus headed as far south as I could get in that direction. This is where my vlog begins.

My rating: 8/10

Saldaña, Tolima, Colombia

The furthest south that I could get with public transport. I departed my bus, and while I was being offered an overpriced cab ride, I found this mural across the street. Good sign?

My rating: 8/10

Hitchhiking Natagaima to Aipe

After reaching Natagaima via bike and hitchhiking, I departed the next morning with plenty of water and bound for the gas station on the main road where I would hitch out. After about thirty minutes, I got a ride, which would take me all of the 50+km that I needed to traverse that day. Along the way, we encountered a road block (as expected), but it allowed us to pass soon after. Then on the way, I saw some Venezuelan refugees clinging to the back of a flatbed truck in the rain.

My rating: 8/10

Aipe, Huila, Colombia

Finally arriving in Aipe, I had a delicious lunch at this restaurant, accompanied by a friendly parrot. After, I got a photo (free) and headed for the Rio Magdalena to cross via canoe. (5,000 COP) The crossing was facilitated by a nice man who called the boat captain to request a pickup. The numbers you can use if you take this trip are in the Villa Vieja waypoint.

My rating: 8/10

Villa Vieja, Huila, Colombia

After debarking the canoe crossing, I biked through this small town, which serves as the gateway to the Tatacoa Desert. Also a good place to get lunch, stock up on water, or buy gifts!

My rating: 7/10

Castillo de la Reina

Having this place to relax during my time in Tatacoa was great. The garden, animals (quiet during sleep), reasonable beverage and meal prices (though the food itself wasn't exceptional), hospitality, and 24 hour electricity made it perfect for my brief stay. Cell service is fleeting and seemingly arbitrary, but I don't expect your goal in coming here is to be a digital nomad. 😛 Call or text to book, to get directions, or a ride. it's not far from the trailhead, mirador, and observatory.

My rating: 8/10

Town surrounding Tatacoa Desert

Whether you are walking among the cacti, or just back to your hospedaje, you will notice immediately how immersed you are in this stark climate. The desert extends a long way, and it is a life giving entity to the locals here that depend on tourism for income.

My rating: 8/10

Tatacoa Desert

The hike and subsequent walk through the red desert in Tatacoa was spectacular. You feel fully immersed in the environment, whether you come here in the morning or the late afternoon / evening. It is puzzling at times to follow the markers, but using natural clues and calmness, you can navigate alone in less than two hours. Guides are available if you prefer to be led.

My rating: 9/10

Tatacoa Desert

The hike and subsequent walk through the red desert in Tatacoa was spectacular. You feel fully immersed in the environment, whether you come here in the morning or the late afternoon / evening. It is puzzling at times to follow the markers, but using natural clues and calmness, you can navigate alone in less than two hours. Guides are available if you prefer to be led.

My rating: 9/10

Tatacoa Desert

The hike and subsequent walk through the red desert in Tatacoa was spectacular. You feel fully immersed in the environment, whether you come here in the morning or the late afternoon / evening. It is puzzling at times to follow the markers, but using natural clues and calmness, you can navigate alone in less than two hours. Guides are available if you prefer to be led.

My rating: 9/10

Tatacoa Desert

The hike and subsequent walk through the red desert in Tatacoa was spectacular. You feel fully immersed in the environment, whether you come here in the morning or the late afternoon / evening. It is puzzling at times to follow the markers, but using natural clues and calmness, you can navigate alone in less than two hours. Guides are available if you prefer to be led.

My rating: 9/10

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