Dolomites Day 6: Vallunga Valley

The sixth, and last day of our stay in the beautiful Dolomites, a mountain range in northeastern Italy, has arrived.

Although we had rested and walked around the charming town of Salva di Gardena the previous day, I was still feeling the effects of a very strenuous and demanding mountain bike ride around Sassolungo. I was still not aware that I had injured myself on that occasion and that my vision was seriously compromised. But the body was sending its subtle signals: slow down a bit!

Mostly because of that sixth sense, which I've learned never to neglect, especially not in the mountains, a small controversy developed among our group. The last day is usually very active, all adjustments to the higher altitude are complete, endurance is improved, mind is ready.

That's why Marko and Ivan suggested a very strenuous 20-ish km hike through the Vallunga Valley, which stretches from the very edge of the city for some 6 km between two mountain ranges. After the valley, they suggested a climb to 2400 high Rifugio Puez Hutte, and then a return along the ridge of the mountain - either back to the Vallunga valley, or a slightly longer section over the Col dala Pieres into Salva di Gardena itself. A full circle of over 20 km with close to 2000 meters of ascent.

However, although Maja and I were in favor of a little less activity, the plan suited us perfectly. The Vallunga Valley is located on the outskirts of the city and is easily accessible in just a few tens of minutes walk. The valley itself is very gentle all the way to its end. It is one of the favorite family picnic spots in this area. With that in mind, I agreed to the idea and we went hiking the damn mountain ;)

Passing through the town of Salva di Gardena once again reinforced my belief that we are in a beautiful part of Italy. Alpine-style houses, lots of greenery, artistic sculptures, flowers, and smiling faces are at every step. Paradise, a real paradise.

We reached the beginning of the valley without much effort but still more or less separated into two groups. While my friends walked at full speed, Maja and I slowed down a lot and walked at our own pace.

At the entrance to the valley, we gathered and that's when I told my friends for the first time to go at their own tempo and leave Maya and me to take it easy. "I have a GPS track, I know how and where we should move, don't let us slow you down" - I convinced my friends. Of course, I met with resistance, but I persisted in my plan to split into two groups.

We moved on through the beautiful Vallunga Valley enjoying every corner of it. Vallunga is surrounded by vertical cliffs over which clouds and mist roll in never ending game. The valley itself gently climbs from the initial 1,600 meters above sea level to 1,800 meters. U-shaped cliffs surround the valley and provide a view that is hard to forget. The surrounding cliffs are 2,400-2,600 meters high, and sharply cut into the valley, which offers a truly imposing view of the beauty of the Dolomites.

The valley is full of green pastures and pine forests. Well-marked footpaths meander through it. Beauties line up with every step. The valley is full of springs of pure alpine water which is simply delicious and which I couldn't stop drinking. We progressed slowly through the valley, again divided into two groups, soaking up the rays of the September sun and enjoying every new detail that unfolded in front of us.

As is usually the case in Italy, apart from nature, the valley is full of history. There are places where historical events took place, small alpine churches, old limestone mines. There are countless works of art, picnic areas, playgrounds for children... As if the breathtaking view is not enough to leave you completely filled with beauty and peace.

At a leisurely pace, we reach another picnic area, which is located at the beginning of a spacious part of the valley. This area is a large and beautiful lake in the spring, when the alpine streams rush from the cliffs in the endless battle between the summer and the winter. Now an alpine river meanders through that valley as a witness that the snow in the Alps never melts completely.

Somewhere along the way, I finally managed to convince my friends to continue at a strong pace and leave Maya and me to continue slowly. I told them that the two of us were simply not in the mood for great efforts. There, for the first time, I admit to them and myself that I don't feel well and that I don't want to push too much.

Reluctantly, they agree and continue at a fast pace towards the Rifugio Puez Hutte, while Maja and I slowly continued our way towards the end of the valley and the decision I made with my morning coffee - not to climb the cliffs at all, but to spend the day in a leisurely retirement walk in the valley.

Far from that I wasn't a little bit sad about that decision. I rarely give up physically demanding activities just because they are difficult. But this time I felt that the dice did not line up for me. So, Maya and I continued slowly, enjoying the sun, the scenery, and the view of the cloud-shrouded cliffs surrounding the green oasis of the Vallunga Valley. We enjoyed every step, petted the cows, steered at the view, and of course - took photos of everything.

We proceeded with casual talk about everything, reminisce about the wonderful places we visited in the previous days, and regretfully state that the very next day we will return to the smog-shrouded grey cities where we live and work.

Every time I'm in the mountains I feel not like a guest, but like someone who has returned home. Like your are at The Right Place. In the plains of Serbia, I often feel as if I am out of my natural environment. Almost as if I am there for a short visit until I return to the cloud-bound peaks and rocky cliffs.

We slowly reached the beginning of a serious climb. I could see the road curving higher and higher up the cliff, the carved steps, and rocky passes reaching far above. We stopped for a while, and there at the beginning of the cliff, we discussed my plan not to climb up into the clouds.

I saw a reflection of my own mixed expression of relief and sadness in Maya's face. It's always like that when you give up on the plan and admit that you're not up to the challenge. However, that time I knew that Maja was also troubled by the question of whether we were making that decision because of her. Maja and I have known each other since early youth, first of all we have been very good friends for over thirty years, and only then a couple who love each other immensely. She's not a physical freak like I am, so we often compromise - I choose something lighter that she can handle, and she sometimes goes the extra mile to accommodate my wishes.

After a bit of mutual reassurance that we were making the right decision, we headed back slowly along the beautiful trails of the Vallunga Valley. A couple of hours of leisurely walking followed, filled with the most beautiful sights that nature can offer, while we absorbed the rays of the sun and the scents of the Alps.

At the end of the road, the beautiful Selva di Gardena welcomed us again. As we passed through its now familiar streets, we couldn't help but feel a little sadness. Who knows if we will see this beautiful town again? Yes, I have been planning to hike the Alta Via I, a multi-day hike in the Dolomites for a couple of years now, but... time is running out and the number of flags on my Bucket List is not decreasing... maybe I should stop adding new ones?

Life is a journey... and that's the only way it makes sense!