Tales of Tartheis #2: Arriving in Agra

The metal train, completely devoid of any modern streamlining, evoked a sense of nostalgia. The rawness of it excited Tartheis, who had become too used to a baby-proofed world. Large metal fans with metal cages hung from the ceiling, gently swirling hot air around the train. The few beams of light that entered were filled with floating dust particles. The chipped paint revealed old steel, rusted in small spots here and there. Metal bars crisscrossed over the small windows on each side. Each compartment was open, with no walls or doors separating spaces from the aisle. But beyond the interesting scene, were the people inhabiting it.

Walking down the isle, Tarth recognized the clear signs of other travelers. A person on the move, away from any societal expectation or obligation, becomes a different person. They become the superhero version of themselves. They look different, walk different, talk different. They ARE different. It is here only where the true self is displayed in full.

A younger asian girl lay sprawled on one of the single benches that ran along the wall of the train, parallel with its motion. She leaned back against the thin metal wall separating her bench from the next, one knee bent up close to her chest. Her dark black hair, tussled and spiked in a few directions, amplified the bright purple streak that fell over her face. A worn and torn denim jacket lie loosely around her shoulders. Tartheis immediately imagined her as some punk vagrant, running from something, or to something. Maybe she was. Maybe she needed to escape for a while to breath. She looked out the window carelessly. A character around every corner, he thought. A story in every stranger. I wonder what she's been up to...

Shortly after the train had taken off, vendors walked up and down the isles selling food, drinks, and toys. The family and the other man in Tarth's compartment began eating. Tartheis pulled out his own food; just some granola he had brought with him from the US. The father of the family offered an orange, and Tarth accepted happily. He offered granola in return, but the man refused kindly. As the vendors moved quickly past the compartment, the father of the family made a Sst!, Sst! noise, like hissing with a sharp, abrupt end. Tartheis watched the man intently. He's trying to get their attention, he realized. I wonder why he's making that noise... He thought for a moment on an answer. I guess that would be like him asking me why people make that sucking noise to cats and dogs to try to lure them closer. The explanation satisfied him and he gave the local phenomena no more thought. Interesting.

The father of the family offered Tartheis another orange before he finished his meal. He accepted, but offered no granola back this time. When the man was done with his food, he balled up the aluminum foil it had been wrapped in, and threw it out the window. Instinctively, Tartheis straightened up and almost lunged for the long-gone aluminum in an attempt to prevent it from becoming litter. He couldn't understand why anyone would do this. But looking out the window, the small ditches along the train's path were covered in trash. No one is ever going to pick that up, he thought dismally, as the train was seemingly in the middle of no where. He looked back toward the aisle. They could have someone go up and down the isle with a trash can...at least. But it wasn't his fight. And if Delhi had taught him anything, it was that everything was some sort of battle here.

The father offered him the window seat while he napped on one of the top bunks. Tartheis smiled and gladly took the spot. He was eager to charge his spare battery. The solar charged back up battery proved to be a life saver a few times already. Tartheis hooked its carabiner to one of the metal bars crisscrossing the window, with the solar panel facing out towards the bright midday sun. The wind blew the device around, and Tarth didn't trust his carabiner. Opening his pack, he found a plastic shopping bag and tore the two handles off. Stretching these into longer lengths, he tied the solar charger's body to the bars to stabilize it against the passing wind. Pleased with himself, he sat back in the bench and relaxed.

The two young girls of the Indian family sat across from him on the opposite bench. They laughed and giggled as Tartheis wiped his face with a cold cloth repeatedly. The heat was bad enough without being trapped inside a metal box. The younger girl whispered something to the older one and they both laughed. Tarth looked over and smiled curiously. The older girl must have sensed his curiosity and said, "She said we should throw water on you." They giggled again, and Tartheis chuckled as well. Cute kids, he thought, leaning back again.

For the first time, he looked down over himself. His large brown steel-toe boots were the exact opposite of the simple sandals most people wore here. That'd cool me off a bit. But he remembered his lessons from Delhi. Don't forget you're walking around on 100,000 rupees. Those boots stay on until you get to the next hostel. No more local accommodations. His large tan calves, covered in tattoos, and cargo shorts further put him out of place. He felt like a stereotypical paleontologist from a movie, who'd come to India to discover some great ancient artifact. I guess the stares are warranted.

Eventually the train arrived at the Agra station. Tarth adorned his pack and clipped it tightly around his chest and waist, ready for any touts that might be waiting outside. The train had given him some respite from the chaos of the Indian streets, but now he'd set to hardening himself against any would-be scammers. He bid goodbye to the family he'd sat with and left the train into the crowded station. On a sole mission to get to his next hostel as easily as possible, he walked sternly through the crowds, out of the station and into the parking lot outside.

Small buses were in motion in several directions; picking up here, dropping off there. Beyond them stood a small army of tuk-tuks and their drivers, and they saw Tarth coming from a mile away. Everything about him screamed, 'tourist'. Several of them yelled to him and approached him asking where he needed to go. Tarth waved them off in annoyance and kept walking. After getting a few streets away from the train station, he came upon a single tuk-tuk with a driver who almost ignored him as he walked by. Tarth asked him for a ride.

The tuk-tuk took Tarth away from the station and busyness of the streets and gave him a chance to look around some. They passed a large structure made of dark red stone, surrounded by lush green trees and bushes. They passed a busy highway where several large cows were walking casually in the middle of traffic. Eventually they passed the Taj Mahal. It stood off in the distance on a platform by the river, surrounded by 4 small towers at each corner. Tarth wasn't expecting it. There was no anticipation, no reveal. It just appeared. Woah... Small at a distance, but impressive nonetheless.

Soon the tuk-tuk arrived at his hostel, Zostel. Grass! They have grass! A small, but bright green lawn lay in front of the orange and white bungalow. Tarth hadn't seen any for at least a week. It was a weird thing to miss. But as goes the old saying, "You don't know what you have til' it's gone." The lush green immediately put a smile on his face. He entered eagerly to book a room; a thing he had gotten used to doing in person, on the spot here, instead of in advance, online as he had become used to. A single bed in a 4-bed dorm was available...for $5 US Dollars per night! Maybe I'll stay here for a bit, he thought, excitedly, anticipating the slow pace and relaxation this place seemed to offer.