Here I am in my second hand hat, scarf and jumper.
My new year's resolution for 2021 was to buy no new clothes. With that v swiftly coming up to a year ago I thought I'd take some time to reflect on this decision and how it's worked out over the last year.
I think at this point everyone knows why someone would want to end any relationship with fast fashion. I remember this being at the forefront of the nation’s consciousness in the late noughties (when I was a teen) through documentaries (see Blood, Sweat and T-Shirts and The Devil Wears Primark). And this has only been exasperated with the rise of super super fast fashion brands such as Pretty Little Thing and Boohoo etc. Now, it’s the topic of many a YouTube thinkpiece.
I’ve always had to shop pretty sustainably out of need rather than want. Being one of 6 and from a low income family I didn’t really grow up with too much excess and I never felt comfortable buying trends that could be unwearable the next year. Hand-me-downs and charity shop steals have always been a mainstay of my wardrobe. Then, after a year or so of being confined in the house and wearing the same few comfy things, the idea of new clothes seemed even more unnecessary. I took the plunge and decided to make it a resolution. No new clothes for 2021.
I do understand the privilege that comes from being able to make this resolution. If I walk into a second hand shop I can normally find something that will fit me. This is not a privilege afforded to all. I also have the time to trawl through websites and charity shops which is a lot more time consuming than popping into H&M and being able to guarantee you can find something that will look good and fit. I also have an established wardrobe to fall back on, at no point would I be at danger of being unclothed.
Equally, I am aware of the conversation around websites such as Depop and the gentrification thereof. Ultimately however, I’m pretty sure that these are better than places like Shein etc.
Rules
This decided it was important for me to at first establish some ground rules. I’m not yet confident enough to brave the world of second hand underwear. Although this isn’t necessarily something I will forever rule out. One thing I’ve learnt this year is that some people are pretty up for selling stuff that is near enough brand new and has never been worn anyway (I very nearly bought a couple of secondhand swimming cozzies but in all honesty the weather didn’t call for them). For 2021 at least I allowed myself to buy any new knickers, socks, bras or tights that I needed. I also informed my friends and family of the rule, in order to rule out any new/fast fashion gifts they might want to get me.
Where
I started New Year’s day with a very thick head and a deep desire to buy a tracksuit. I went onto Depop and bought three, proof that a breakaway from fast fashion didn’t necessarily mean that I would slow down on over-consumption. This was one of very few times I used Depop, I generally found that it was pretty overpriced. Although a good starting point, I think the market has been driven up by the sheer amount of users on the platform. This is great in terms of curation, Depop is a great way to shop a specific style and the shops are often like visiting a pretty good vintage shop, including the price tags. I also found the mobile app pretty unintuitive, I don’t like how you have to click on the item to see the price of it and found it pretty clunky.
As ever, I shopped a lot from charity shops. I live in a town which has quite a few of them and when I have a spare afternoon I enjoy the process of sifting through everything in the shop. It’s also a great way to add some books I probably won’t read to my never ending collection. However, I do find that more and more these shops are also populated by fast fashion brands, as the clothing cycle gets shorter. Although a good way to repurpose these items I tend to stay away as I assume the quality is not gna be as good as with some older pieces. It does not fit with my ethos of sustainable slow fashion. I’ll be picking up a cheeky St Michael’s number a million times over rather than Shein.
After being bombarded with YouTube adverts for what seemed like an eternity I gave in and downloaded Vinted. Much like Depop, Vinted is a platform for people to sell their own clothes online. I found that Vinted is a lot less curated than Depop so you’ve got to look a bit harder for what you want. There are less businesses than on Depop and I enjoyed buying things from actual people. They also offer an offer option, where you can offer lower than the asking price for an item, something I took full advantage of. One draw back of Vinted that I have found is the fees. Unlike Depop the fees are all recouped from the buyers rather than the sellers side. This is fine in practice if you mentally add about a fiver to the listed price.
Leena Norms' has a load of super interesting videos about second hand fashion. I love how she still relishes in the joy and silliness of clothes while shopping sustainably.
An untapped resource that I exploited in 2021 was my family and friends. From speaking to people about my resolution and challenge I began to be the step before donation for these people. On a very successful trip to London to see a fashion designer friend of mine I came away with 2 pairs of trousers, one Prada pair (!) and a Burberry hoody that has since become staples in my wardrobe. Who would have thought my first foray into designer fashion would be in the year that I decidedly tried to keep away from it.
Lessons Learnt
The main takeaway from this year is that it was completely doable. I seem to have succeeded in shifting my mindset away from the want and need to buy things new. One example of this was for my cousin’s wedding in the summer. This kind of occasion would normally encourage me to buy something new. When this option was removed from the equation and a busy summer of working hadn’t given me time to look through the apps I was forced to reconsider my wardrobe, remembering a dress I’d bought for a wedding a few summers ago that was completely fit for purpose. Likewise my upcoming Christmas do, I haven’t even considered buying something new for it and instead, I hotfooted it to my sister's to see what she had that I could borrow.
Going forward I still have mega room for improvement. I have definitely still over consumed. I have found myself blinded by the cheapness of an item only to wear it very seldom. I’m also often ignorant about sizing, buying for a body I might one day have rather than the one I inhabit, for the item to just end up collecting dust. I’m also not good at passing on old clothes that I no longer wear. Which is something that I will yet again endeavor to do in the new year (listing and selling things is so boring).
I can’t really see myself ever buying fast fashion again. This year has deffo cemented this for me and I’m very glad I took the plunge and set out the guidelines. It’s made me think about what things need replacing and what kind of clothes are unsustainable by nature. For example I’ve found myself thinking a lot about trainers. They’re pretty easy to buy boxfresh on both Depop and Vinted. They do still have an extremely limited shelf-life and I might have to hang them up forever pretty soon. Likewise tights, if I’m ripping a hole through a pair every time I don them are they something I can continue to wear?
It's a nice resolution and I know we can find some great stuff in charity shops. I understand your limit on underwear, that would definitely be too much.
Well, don't think I could do it.
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Thank you! Yeah and it's such an enjoyable way to pass a day too!x
I think I read/heard recently that there are enough clothes in existence on the planet to clothe the next 6 generations of humans. Or something along those lines. My memory isn't one of my best features. :)
The whole fast fashion business is awful. About 10 years ago I started making my own clothes because the thought of cheap labour and poor working conditions in poorer countries was too upsetting. I became absolutely obsessed with making clothes. To the point where it would be rare if I wasn't wearing all home made clothes. I began to realise just how badly made a lot of the high street stuff is, and how cheap the fabrics felt. It became an obsession for a few years. I designed and made my wedding dress. I even got a phone interview to appear on the Great British Sewing Bee, although in retrospect I thankfully didn't get on. Too stressful! I've calmed down a bit now because I don't need any more clothes. I'm making a pair of trousers this weekend, but that's only because I've gained weight over lockdown and all my old trousers are a bit tight. :) I guess making my own clothes is still bad for the planet, as the fabric has to come from somewhere, but I try and buy organic cotton if I can, and stay away from cheap man made material. It has certainly made me appreciate how much work goes into making a garment, and that someone and/or something has been very exploited, if a shop is selling a dress for £10.
Brilliant effort on your part, and a really interesting blog. :)
Jesus that's shocking, and not at all suprising. There are far too many clothes in the world and in production.
Yes exactly! Most clothes made these days are only meant to be worn a handful of times and then chucked so the quality is absolutely terrible. Every single corner is cut in terms of materials, labour and transporting. Seems the only thing these companies have a budget for is advertising.
Thats's so cool about you making your clothes and the call up from the sewing bee I'm super impressed. Were you crafty or anything before or did it come from nowhere? I wouldn't say that making your own clothes is bad for the planet, you're able to circumnavigate so much exploitation and transportation emissions that way. Also it's a really productive hobby. Would love to see pictures of these trousers when you're done.
My Mum was a home economics teacher, back in the day when the girls were taught sewing and cooking, and the boys did woodwork and metal work. (!!!!) I grew up with a sewing machine in the house so always new roughly how to use one. When I started sewing again, I looked on YouTube for anything I didn't know how to do. :)
I'll send a pic of the trousers once they're done. I'm going to cut out today and they might not get finished for a few days, but I need them for Christmas Day, so that I can wear them to my in laws, so I have a deadline. ;o)
I've bought a few items from Community Clothing. It's a really cool initiative set up by Patrick Grant (who incidentally is once of the Sewing Bee judges). He has a factory in Blackburn, and in the down time he keeps his employees in work, making basics, using off cuts of material, and sells them at cost. The fabric is all properly sourced. I have a really nice pair of selvedge jeans (that are currently a bit tight!) that I bought from there. It's not cheap, but again it is an illustration of how cheap and exploitative the fast fashion industry is, given that they don't take any profits from the items, and just cover the cost of production.
https://communityclothing.co.uk/
Are you setting yourself any new targets for next year?
It's so nice to meet someone who feels similarly about clothes! :)
I think the art of sewing has deffo been lost a bit. I'd quite like to have done sewing and woodwork at school. Would be so useful!
I know that if I've got anything more than a simple stitch I'd go straight to my mum to do it haha. YouTube is a brilliant recourse to learn pretty much anything.
Ohh I've never heard of that company before but I've just had a look and what a brilliant initiative! I'll deffo coider that in the future.
I don't have any new years resolutions as of yet, I don't normally set them but last year I was inspired. How about you?
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nice verybright post, sally. second hand is cool but not for underwear. to me that is for when you are beyond principled or needy. it seems downright desperate.
Thank you! Yeah I haven't quite got there yet but you'd be surprised the things people sell. Some things have been bought and never worn even.
Such a cool idea ; we waste so much on new shit.
So so much shit is wasted. Especially prevalent this time of year x
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I want to tell you about a small activity that has become a tradition in Australia. Almost every Saturday or Sunday I find people's houses holding stalls to sell things they no longer use. The goals vary. Sometimes, the owner of the goods has to move to another city so that instead of carrying it, they choose to sell it to someone else. So it's not too much trouble, considering that the cost of moving goods in Australia is very expensive. Even more so when moving between states. Not infrequently another reason is because the owners just want to reduce the items they no longer use so that the house becomes more spacious. This selling model is known to the public as a garage sale.
For those who do not have time to sell it themselves, usually they will donate their goods to social institutions or churches. Save the Children, Australian Red Cross, Salvation Army, St Vincent de Paul are some institutions that always accept used goods.
Garage sales are less common in the UK but I will see people selling things outside their houses occasionally. What is more common here is Carboot Sales, where people will rent a patch of a carpark for a day and sell their unwanted thing there. It can be a great way to spend a morning as you never know what you will come across.
You can also donate directly to charity or to a charity shop which sells the clothes and donates the proceeds to the charity it represents.
Wow..in Indonesia it is called "Pasar Monza_Monza market' which sells used clothes from abroad. In Malaysia it is called the 'Pasar Karat-Rush Market'. If you're lucky you get "Qarun's Treasure" hehe..