One of these days I'll make it up there on a good fall color year where it all changes at once. I could actually feel the undertow from the rip tides as I walked out, the top layer pushes you out and the lower layer of water pulls you in so if you get caught underwater midway it can easily drown someone who doesn't know how to break the roll.
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That would be cool to do
I worked as a lifeguard for a couple of seasons so both trained on rips and rescued people caught in them
Even knowing what your doing can be scary